Saturday 31 October 2015

Nigel Slater's classic ribollita.

Nigel Slater's classic ribollita | Life and style | The Guardian
Ribollita - which means 'boiled twice'.
Literally "re-boiled", this sustaining, ancient recipe is the very essence of kitchen economy – a big fat soup substantial enough to be a main course.

THE RECIPE
Leave 2 peeled onions,
2 carrots,
3 peeled cloves of garlic and
3 ribs of celery, all roughly chopped, to cook for 20 minutes in a couple of tbsp of olive oil in a deep pan.
When they are soft, stir in a 400g can of chopped tomatoes, and
250g cooked cannellini beans with
250ml of their cooking water and a couple of bay leaves.
Leave to simmer over a low to moderate heat for 30 minutes.
Tear up 4 thick slices of bread and dunk them into the soup.
Chop four large handfuls of cavolo nero or other kale and stir it in.
Season and continue to simmer for 15-20 minutes until you have a thickish soup, adding more bean water if you need to.
Serve in bowls with a trickle of olive oil on each.

THE TRICK
A night in the fridge will encourage the flavours to marry.
Keep the pieces of vegetable quite small – the soup should be thick, but not a chunky stew.
Use a firm white loaf, torn into rough chunks.

THE TWIST
Cavolo nero is pretty much a given if you are adding greens to your ribollita, but spring greens and Savoy cabbage also make fine alternatives to the finished soup.
Some cooks add cubed potatoes, courgettes, diced prosciutto, leeks, thyme leaves, fennel seeds and crushed dried chillies.
I like to pour in a spoon of lemon oil too at the last minute to brighten up the flavours.

Note: Substitute for Cannellini Beans (large white Italian kidney beans ): - Great Northern or white (navy) beans or flageolets.

Ribollita – Tuscan White Bean Soup.

Ribollita – Tuscan White Bean Soup Recipe - Love and Lemons
Ribollita is a famous Tuscan soup, a hearty potage made with bread and vegetables.
There are many variations but the main ingredients always include leftover bread, cannellini beans and inexpensive vegetables such as carrot, cabbage, beans, silverbeet, cavolo nero, and onion.
Its name literally means "reboiled".

10 servings.

1/4 cup olive oil
1 carrot, diced
1 red onion, diced
2 ribs celery, diced
4 ounces cauliflower florets, diced
4 ounces savoy cabbage, diced
1 leek (white part only), washed and diced
1 bunch cavalo nero (black cabbage), cleaned and chopped
1 potato, peeled and diced
Sea salt and black pepper to taste
1/4 cup cooked white beans
1 14-ounce can San Marzano tomatoes, crushed
1 quart chicken broth
1 large sprig rosemary
1 to 2 large sprigs thyme
Peel of 1 orange
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 pound Italian peasant bread-diced and oven-dried
Extra-virgin olive oil, preferably Tuscan

In a soup pot over high heat, heat half the olive oil, and add all the vegetables.
Season with salt and pepper.
Stirring occasionally, cook until the vegetables are semi soft.

Add the cooked white beans and the crushed tomatoes with the juice.
Cook 3 minutes and then add the chicken broth.
Taste and adjust the seasoning.
Tie in a piece of cheese cloth the rosemary, thyme, orange peel and peppercorns to make a bouquet garni and add to the pot.
Bring to a boil and then turn down a simmer for 1 hour.

Refrigerate overnight.
The next day, bring the soup to a boil, and stirring constantly, add all the bread until the soup becomes very thick, like a stuffing.
Set aside.

Heat a little olive oil in a large nonstick saute pan, and add the bread soup.
Brown on both sides and serve immediately, garnished with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.

Note: Substitute for Cannellini Beans (large white Italian kidney beans ): - Great Northern or white (navy) beans or flageolets.

- Nigel Slater's classic ribollita | Life and style | The Guardian

List of Italian soups - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Thursday 29 October 2015

Budino di ricotta by Anna del Conte.




Using plain flour instead of Italian 00: in breadmaking, use a mixture of half strong white (see below) and half plain flour, but the dough produced will not be as stretchy and extensible.
00 produces a much crisper result that can’t be imitated with either flour.
In cake making use slightly more baking powder but no other changes.



Choosing the best flour.

Coming on strong: choosing the best flour from
http://www.danlepard.com/2015/12/05/coming-on-strong/
On bags of flour in UK supermarkets the words “strong white” and “plain” – and occasionally the ridiculous “strong plain” label, courtesy of someone presumably doing their bit to discourage all home baking – are emblazoned on the packs as if they meant something.
Now when I write a recipe and in the ingredients ask for “strong white flour”, all I mean is go and buy a bag of flour labelled “strong white” and use it.
If you push me, I‘ll explain that in the UK, strong flour is typically flour for breadmaking, and plain flour is flour for cakes and biscuits.
But to be really honest, the truth is much more complex as I frequently use plain flour for bread recipes, and strong white flour for cake recipes.

Note:
Italians and English do not categorise flour in the same way.
Italian flour is graded by colour (technically called extraction rate - that is the extent to which the bran and the germ are extracted from the flour).
It is marked 00 to 04 where 00 is really really white and 04 is rather closer to whole meal.
The exception is Durham flour but let's not go there now.
English flour, on the other hand is graded by both colour (white, brown, whole meal) and by gluten content, or strength (plain, strong, extra strong or words to that effect) and we believe that the stronger the flour, the better the bread.
All else being equal, stronger flour makes bread that rises higher and has a more evenly textured crumb.

A wheat flour typically milled in Italy, where millers grade their flour by using a ‘zero’ rating. A single zero flour is quite coarse in texture, like very powdery semolina, whereas triple zero is much finer like cornstarch. But everyday flour is usually classed as double zero, or ‘00’.

In cake recipes it can be replaced with plain flour;
in bread, pizza and pasta recipes it can be replaced with strong white bread flour.
It is often lower in protein than British flours and so produces a much crisper crust in bread, and a finer texture in cakes.

Using Italian 00 instead of plain flour: If baking powder is used reduce it slightly. By the way, Italian 00 produces a lovely light scone.

Using plain flour instead of Italian 00: in breadmaking, use a mixture of half strong white (see below) and half plain flour, but the dough produced will not be as stretchy and extensible. 00 produces a much crisper result that can’t be imitated with either flour. In cake making use slightly more baking powder but no other changes

- New to Alternative Flour? Start With These 9 Recipes:

Jersey Black Butter Le Niere Beurre, Aka Apple Butter Recipe.

Jersey Black Butter Le Niere Beurre), Aka Apple Butter Recipe - Food.com
Between 1600 and 1700, twenty percent of Jersey’s arable land was made up of orchards.
A great tradition that exists as a result of Jersey’s proliferation of apples is the production of ‘black butter’ or ‘Le Niere Buerre’.

2 kg apples (cider apples)
1L sweet apple cider
500 g sugar
1 teaspoon clove (ground)
2 teaspoons cinnamon (ground)
1/4 teaspoon allspice (aka 1 Saltspoon)
clarified butter

DIRECTIONS

Take 4 pounds of full ripe apples, and peel and core them.
Meanwhile put into a pan 2 pints of sweet cider, and boil until it reduces by half.
Put the apples, chopped small, to the cider.
Cook slowly stirring frequently, until the fruit is tender, as you can crush beneath the back of a spoon.
Then work the apple through a sieve, and return to the pan adding
- 1lb beaten (granulated) sugar and spices as following,
- 1 teaspoon clove well ground,
- 2 teaspoons cinnamon well ground,
- 1 saltspoon allspice well ground.

Cook over low fire for about 3/4 hour, stirring until mixture thickens and turns a rich brown.
Pour the butter into into small clean jars, and cover with clarified butter when cold.
Seal and keep for three months before using.
By this time the butter will have turned almost black, and have a most delicious flavour.
I cannot guess at the amount of time to make, 1-2 days is the traditional time spent.
From Jane Austen's Christmas.
Maria Hubert von Staufer March 1995.

- Jersey Black Butter

Wednesday 28 October 2015

Mark Bittman's Customizable Soups.

Mark Bittman's Customizable Soups - The New York Times

I’m not anti-recipe (obviously), but some things just don’t need them — and most vegetable soups fall into that category.
Here are easy-to-follow instructions for making vegetable (vegetarian and, for the most part, vegan) soups with common ingredients, a variety of choices and terrific flavor.
Print the following page, stick it on your refrigerator and work your way through it.
By the time you’re done — 12 days or 12 weeks later — you’ll never again need a recipe for vegetable soup.
Promise.

And you’ll need no special techniques, no advance preparation and, for the most part, not much time.
You can use just about any vegetable (or bean) you have on hand.
These are not stone soups, but they’re close.

I’ve created four essential categories:
- creamy (vegetables puréed with dairy);
- brothy (a strained vegetable stock, with quick-cooking ingredients added);
- earthy (with beans); and
- hearty (the vegetables sautéed first, to deepen their flavor).

A few practical notes:
All of these recipes serve four, and you’ll want about a 2.5-to-4-quart (medium or large) pot.
Most can be cooked for a while — but not so long that the freshness is gone.
Most will taste as good or better the next day, so consider making a double batch and refrigerating (or freezing) the leftovers.
But never boil a soup after you’ve added dairy to it; instead, reheat gently.

If you want a supersmooth soup (and just about any of these soups can be puréed if you like), use a standing blender — let the soup cool a bit first — which creates a finer purée than an immersion blender does; you might even strain the soup after puréeing it.

Garnishes are all optional, though herbs add a dimension that will be lacking otherwise.
If you taste as you’re cooking, you’ll be fine, because there is really nothing to go wrong here.

Chickpea and pasta soup.

from Anna del Conte
If you are using canned chickpeas, then start the soup with part two!
I have also replaced ditalini (pasta) for orzo.
Orzo is often boiled in Italian soups, like minestrone. It also is boiled and lightly fried, to resemble risotto.


Serves 12
130g dried chickpeas
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
1 tbsp flour
1 tbsp salt

1 litres vegetable stock or water
1 rosemary sprigs
3 garlic cloves, peeled and bruised

40ml extra virgin olive oil
100g skinned fresh tomatoes, seeded
100g small tubular pasta such as ditalini
parmesan cheese for grating
chilli oil and flat-leaf parsley, optional

Put the chickpeas in a bowl and cover with plenty of water.
Mix together the bicarb of soda, flour and salt and add enough water to make a thin paste.
Stir this mixture into the bowl with the chickpeas and leave to soak for at least 12 hours - preferably 24.

When the chickpeas have doubled their weight (you don't have to get your scales out: trust your eyes) they are ready to be cooked.
Drain and rinse.
Put them in a large stockpot and add the vegetable stock or the same quantity of water.
Tie the rosemary sprigs in a muslin bag and add to the stockpot.

Add the garlic to the stockpot and pour in half the oil.
Cover the pan tightly and bring to the boil.
Lower the heat and cook over the lowest simmer until the chickpeas are tender, which can take two to four hours.
Do not uncover the pan for the first hour and a half, or the chickpeas will harden.
For the same reason, do not add any salt until the chickpeas are nearly ready.

Part two:
When the chickpeas are tender, remove the garlic and the rosemary bundle.

- Purée the tomatoes through a food mill or in a food processor and add to the soup with their juice.
- Stir well, add salt and pepper to taste and cook for a further 10 minutes or so.
This is the point at which you should stop when you're cooking the soup in advance.
In which case, when you want to eat it, put it back on the hob and reheat it, so that you can proceed to the final step, which is to cook the pasta.

Before you add the pasta, check that there is enough liquid in the pan.
You may have to add some boiling water.
Now, add the pasta and cook till al dente.
I like to add some freshly chopped flat-leaf parsley, but the glory of this soup will be undiminished if you prefer not to.
But do pour some of the remaining oil into the pot of soup, and drizzle some more into each bowl after you've ladled in the soup.
Put the Parmesan on the table with a grater.

Monday 26 October 2015

Ларингит.

Лечим Ларингит!
Имбирь - 1ч.
Гвоздика - 1/4 ч.л.
Черный перец - 0,5 ч.л.
Кардамон - 0,5 ч.л.
Корица - 1/4 ч.л.
Мускатный орех - 1/4 ч.л.
Сахар - 3 ст.л.
_______________________

1/3 ч.л. смеси на 1 л. кипятка.

Spices & Seasonings.

As a general rule, whole spices will stay fresh for about 4 years, ground spices for about 2 to 3 years and dried herbs for 1 to 3 years.
A spice is a seed, fruit, root, bark, berry, bud or vegetable substance primarily used for flavoring, coloring or preserving food.
Spices are distinguished from herbs, which are parts of leafy green plants used for flavoring or as a garnish.
List of culinary herbs and spices - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

In Le Guide culinaire, Auguste Escoffier divides seasoning and condiments into the following groups:
Seasoning is the process of adding salt, herbs, or spices to food to enhance the flavor.
Seasonings:
Salts
Saline seasonings—Salt, spiced salt, saltpeter.
Acid seasonings—Plain vinegar (sodium acetate), or same aromatized with tarragon; verjuice, lemon and orange juices.
Hot seasonings—Peppercorns, ground or coarsely chopped pepper, or mignonette pepper; paprika, curry, cayenne, and mixed pepper spices.
Saccharine seasonings—Sugar, honey.

Condiments:
The pungents—onions, shallots, garlic, chives, and horseradish.
Hot condiments—Mustard, gherkins, capers, English sauces, such as Worcestershire sauce, Baron Green Seasoning, Harvey's Sauce, ketchup, etc. and American sauces such as chili sauce, Tabasco, A1 Steak Sauce, etc.; the wines used in reductions and braisings; the finishing elements of sauces and soups.
Fatty substances—Most animal fats, butter, vegetable greases (edible oils and margarine).

Schwartz | Home of Herbs and Spices, Sauces and Recipe Mixes

Приправы, специи и пряности.

Вкусовые добавки — Википедия
Вкусовые добавки: припра́вы, пряности, специи.

Пряности — Википедия:
Пряности — различные части растений, добавляемые в пищу в малых дозах в различных целях, в основном, с целью улучшения вкуса, обладающие специфическим, в той или иной мере устойчивым ароматом и вкусом.
Употребляя термин «пряности», надо иметь в виду, что пряности и приправы в узкокулинарном смысле — противоположные термины.
СПЕЦИИ ОТ А ДО Я
Также следует отметить, что слово специи также, по крайней мере, в русском языке, не является синонимом слова пряности:
- специями в кулинарной практике и быту называют некий набор наиболее распространённых и употребляемых пряностей (перец, лавровый лист и т. п.) и приправ (соль, сахар, горчица и т. п.).

В мире же пряности называются по разному: spices (Великобритания).

Кухня турецких тетушек - Тмин, Кумин, Черный Тмин и Зира
Кумин ботаническое название: Cuminum cyminum L.
Тмин обыкновенный: (Carum carvi),
Черну́шка, Черный тмин, Чёрек оту: (лат. Nigélla)
Зира (еще Черная зира): (Bunium persicum.)
Зира - сушеные семена пряной травы Cuminum cyminum, семейства петрушки.

И много чего здесь!

И здесь:
- Игра в бирюльки в четыре руки - МАТЕМАТИКА ЧУДА:
- Зира и другие - Shabal bin-Jusef al-Rusht

- Приправы, пряности, специи: тмин, кумин и другие.
Взаимозаменяемы ли данные пряности?

Тмин, ввиду особенностей своего аромата, не заменяем ничем.
Положив вместо него кумин или буниум, повар, понятное дело, не испортит блюдо.
Но аромат готового изделия будет совсем другой, абсолютно непривычный носителям соответствующего пласта кулинарной культуры.

А вот кумин (имеющий, как мне кажется, наиболее универсальный аромат) и его черные вариации заменяются друг другом неплохо, во всяком случае, принципиально другого результата такая замена не даст.

Однако, в целом, применение, распространение, да и объем сбора буниумов довольно ограничены и уж точно не идут ни в какое сравнение с аналогичными характеристиками обычного белого кумина.

А, используя факт их схожести и различия, купажисты нередко смешивают белый и черный кумин в соотношении примерно 4:1 для получения гармоничного и «широкополосного» аромата.

Аюрведа - Специи, пряности и приправы

Про специи и пряности. - Не ищите идеальную женщину ...
Сочетание специй и пряностей с продуктами

Солим капусту.

Самое время напомнить! - stalic
- на 50 кг капусты у нас уходит 1 кг соли, то есть 2% от веса
- тмин в капусте предотвращает газообразование в кишечнике
- семена укропа - они работают точно так же, как тмин и зира
- горошин перца
- лавровых листиков
- раз в день надо протыкать капусту в нескольких местах чистым шомполом, чтобы помочь выйти пузырькам наружу
- на холоде жизнедеятельность бактерий замедляется и капуста хранится сколько угодно - хоть до весны. Оптимальный диапазон температур для хранения капусты от +5С до -5С, то есть - прохладная кладовка, неотапливаваемая лоджия, веранда, сени.
После того, как капуста постоит три-четыре дня в тепле и три-четыре дня на холоде, порежьте сладкий фиолетовый лук.
Достаньте капусту чистыми руками и накройте как было. Смешайте с луком, полейте вкусным растительным маслом и давайте к столу!
Через месяц-два капуста станет кислее, тогда отжимайте ее руками перед подачей.
Еще через месяц-два она станет совсем кислой, тогда ее хорошо тушить либо, если подавать на стол как есть, то лучше ее положить в дуршлаг и промыть.
Как бы не было холодно и промозгло на улице, холодная капуста, несколько ломтиков сала и черный хлеб греют лучше, чем сорокоградусная. А если еще и совместить, то на душе станет совсем тепло.
- как сделать капусту ломтями с перцем? См здесь же!
PS
- примерно 2-3 недели после закваски, я все хорошо перемешиваю, даю еще настоятся, расфасовываю по пакетам и замораживаю. Потом, после разморозки, вкус, консистенция, цвет не меняются - а выглядит как свежая.
- капусту, морковку (тертую правда), перец, лаврушку, чеснок - посолить и все в 3-литровую банку, и залить кипятком. Через 3 дня можно есть, хотя хрустит меньше. Такой вариант лайт.
А если в капусту положить зеленые яблоки - маленькие целиком, или дольками порезать, то очень вкусная штука получается.
- По каким критериям понять, что брожение пора останавливать? Должно ли оно пройти активную стадию и пойти на спад, или надо успеть убрать капусту в холод раньше?
По вкусу. Пусть почти дойдет до того, который Вам нравится. Должна появиться ощутимая кислинка.
должна быть покрыта соком полностью, обе должны храниться под гнетом -иначе испортится

Goulash Soup with Cabbage.

Kalyn's Kitchen®:
(Makes 4-6 servings, recipe created by Kalyn)

2 onions, cut half both ways, then in thick slivers
2 tsp finely minced garlic
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tsp sweet Hungarian Paprika (I recommend Penzeys)
1 tsp hot Hungarian Paprika (I recommend Penzeys)
1/2 tsp crushed caraway seed (optional: caraway and cumin are two different seeds, but they do almost look the same - cumin is a lot stonger taste than caraway. You would need more caraway to get the same strength in taste)
4 cups homemade beef stock
3 cups roasted tomatoes or 2 cans diced tomatoes
2 cups finely diced cabbage
500 grams lean ground beef
1 jar roasted red peppers, diced into 1 inch pieces
sour cream for serving

Heat large heavy frying pan, add oil, and saute onions about 5 minutes, until barely starting to color.
Add garlic and saute 2 minutes more, then add paprika and caraway if using and saute 1 minute more.

Put onion/spice mixture into large soup pot.
Deglaze pan with 1 cup of beef stock, then add that and rest of beef stock to soup pot.
Add roasted tomatoes, cabbage and 2 cups water to soup pot and start to simmer.

Brown ground beef in frying pan until quite brown, breaking into small pieces as it cooks.
When browned add to soup pot.
Let simmer on very low heat one hour. (Taste for seasoning and add more paprika if desired. I personally think you can never have too much paprika in a soup like this.)

After one hour, add diced red peppers and simmer one hour more.
Serve hot, garnished with sour cream.
This freezes very well.

* tsp is an abbreviation for teaspoon.
The abbreviation is never capitalized because a capital letter is customarily reserved for the larger tablespoon - “T”.

Saturday 24 October 2015

Crêpe.

From Tante Marie.

The key is the quantities - you need to have perfect proportions with batter. This is light, lovely and will stay with you forever.
Makes about 30 pancakes

600ml milk
300ml water
300g flour
6 eggs
1 tsp salt
1 tbs salad oil
1 tbs brandy

Add the milk and water to the flour gradually, beating constantly so that the batter becomes very smooth.
Add eggs, salt, oil, and brandy.
Beat the batter until smooth and set aside to rest for an hour or two.

Heat a large frying pan and grease very lightly.
Pour a serving spoon of the batter into the frying pan and move the pan around until the entire surface is covered.
Both the batter and the resulting crêpe should be thin.
When it is brown, turn with a large spatula and cook for a moment on the other side.
Continue this process until all the batter is used.
Keep the crêpes in a warm place.

Fresh tomato sauce. Sugo fresco di pomodoro.

Fresh tomato sauce. Sugo fresco di pomodoro.
By Marcella Hazan (April 15, 1924 – September 29, 2013) .

Ruth Rogers (Ruth Rogers, 64, is a chef and co-founder of the River Café restaurant in London.):
'People are always putting yet another ingredient into pasta dishes but for me, and for most Italians, the simplest tomato pasta sauce is always the best.
My husband is Italian and that's what he loves the most.
When we entertain, which isn't very often, people always expect a fancy meal but I often make this dish because it's the nicest dish there is.
The trick is to slow-cook the tomato and if you are using cans of tomato make sure you get rid of the excess juice.
This is a fabulous recipe.
Enjoy.'

Serves 6

450g pasta
6 tbs extra virgin olive oil
2 medium garlic cloves, peeled and sliced very thinly
300g tinned Italian peeled plum tomatoes, cut into large pieces,
with their juice
salt
black pepper in a grinder
10 fresh basil leaves, torn by hand into small pieces

Put the oil and garlic in a saucepan and turn the heat to medium.
When the garlic becomes coloured a pale gold, add the tomatoes and turn the heat down to very low.
Cook, uncovered, until the oil floats free of the tomatoes, for about 20 minutes.
Add salt and grindings of pepper and cook for another two to three minutes, stirring from time to time.
Off the heat, stir in the torn basil leaves.

Chef's note: The special taste of the sauce depends largely on the way the garlic is handled.
It must be sliced very thinly, sautéed only until it becomes just faintly coloured, and then allowed to simmer slowly in the tomato so that it can release all its sweetness.
Raw basil at the end contributes a fragrant fillip.
Make sure the basil does not undergo any cooking.
The sauce can be cooked several hours in advance.
Add the basil after reheating, as serving.

Or:
- Marcella Hazan's Bolognese Sauce Recipe - NYT Cooking
- Marcella Hazan’s Roast Chicken With Lemons Recipe - NYT Cooking
- Sugo di Pomodoro - Flavia's Flavors

Budino di Ricotta.

A bit sheepish | rachel eats
Adapted from Elizabeth David’s Budino di ricotta in Italian food and Roberto and Rosa D’Ancona’s Budino di ricotta in the superlative La Cucina Romana.

5 eggs
500 g ricotta
150 g fine sugar
3 heaped tablespoons ground almonds or plain flour
grated zest of two unwaxed lemons
3 – 5 tbsp rum
a pinch of salt
a little melted butter and fine breadcrumbs for the tin

Set the oven to 180°.
Brush a 25cm / 10 inch cake tin with melted butter and then dust it with fine breadcrumbs.

Separate the eggs putting the whites in one large bowl and the yolks in another.
Sieve or mash the ricotta and beat it together with the eggs yolks.
Add the sugar, almonds/ flour, lemon zest, rum and salt and beat again.

Whisk the eggs white vigorously until they are mounted and form soft peaks.
Using a metal spoon gently fold the eggs whites into the ricotta mixture.
Pour the thick batter into the buttered and crumbed tin.

Bake for 40 minutes or until the cake is firm, puffy and slightly golden on top.
Serve just warm, at room temperature or cold. You can dust it with icing sugar if you like.

PS
"Now literally translated budino means pudding, so we could translate budino di ricotta as pudding of ricotta or, better still - ricotta pudding.
We could just as easily call it a ricotta cake, a baked cheese cake or a baked ricotta pudding.

The procedure is nice and straightforward.
You sieve the ricotta and then beat it first with the egg yolks and then with the ground almonds or flour, sugar, lemon zest, salt and rum.
Keep beating until you have a smooth, consistent cream that begs – for the raw egg fearless among us – to be tasted repeatedly.
To finish you fold in the egg whites you’ve whisked so vigorously they’ve formed – giggle – stiff peaks and then scrape this thick batter into tin brushed with melted butter and dusted with fine breadcrumbs.
You bake.
The cake that is, until it’s firm, puffed with price and just a little golden on top.

Now if you are a fan of delicate puds and pretty cakes, this probably isn’t for you.
If however you think you might like a dense (but not heavy), lemon scented, rum laced pudding that is all at once a rather sophisticated fat pancake, a fruitless bread and butter pudding, a baked custard and the inside of a Jewish baked cheesecake I suggest you try this recipe.
I adore it."

For every 1 tablespoon of cornstarch, you'll need to use about 3 tablespoons of flour. Also, cook whatever you're thickening a few minutes longer to get rid of the raw flavor of the flour.

Meeting Anna del Conte.

Meeting Anna del Conte | The Foodie Bugle
Her final paragraphs in her autobiography are very moving, describing the silence and solitude experienced by the partner that is left behind.

“There is nobody to tell me what article I must not miss in today’s newspaper, what television programme I must watch; nobody to switch on the radio for me so I can listen to my favourite piece of music while I’m cooking….
And, worst of all, nobody to deal with banks, bonds, insurance policies, and to ring up and talk to people I cannot understand.
At the venerable age of 82, there seems little hope of feeling less lonely, less quiet or less tired….And then I think of my grandchildren and all the meals I have yet to cook and share with them. Suddenly I have a reason for living.”

Friday 23 October 2015

Ricotta Cake by Anna del Conte (Italian Kitchen).

"When you make the cake I would recommend creaming the butter and sugar for around 7 minutes.
This lets lots of air into the mixture which will make your cake taste light.
And if you are using a KitchenAid remember every few minutes to scrape the sides down with a spatula so that all the butter and sugar is being mixed evenly together."

Torta di Ricotta
Ricotta Cake
Serves 10-12

120g sultanas
300g caster sugar
120g unsalted butter, at room temperature
4 large eggs, at room temperature
grazed zest of 1 organic lemon
6 tbsp potato flour
1 tbsp baking powder
1/2 tsp sea salt
1kg fresh ricotta
unsalted butter for the tin
icing sugar, to decorate

1. Soak the sultanas in hot water for 15 minutes to puff them up.
2. Reserve 1 tbsp of the caster sugar. Beat the butter with the remaining sugar until pale and creamy and then add the eggs, one at a time. When all the eggs have been incorporated, mix in the lemon zest, potato flour, baking powder and salt.
3. Heat the oven to 180.
4. Press the ricotta through the small-hole disc of a food mill, or through a sieve, directly onto the other ingredients. Do not use a food processor as this would aerate the ricotta. Fold the ricotta thoroughly into the mixture. Drain the sultanas, pat them dry with kitchen paper and fold into the mixture.
5. Generously butter a 25cm springform cake tin and sprinkle with the reserved caster sugar to coat the bottom and sides.
6. Spoon the ricotta mixture into the tin and bake for one to one and quarter hours or until the cake is done (it will shrink slightly from the sides of the tin). Leave to cool in the tin. Unmould the cake when cold and place on a flat serving dish. Sprinkle with plenty of sifted icing sugar just before serving.
Ricotta Cake by Anna del Conte (Italian Kitchen)

Anna Del Conte shares a few of her top tips.

Queen cucina: Anna Del Conte - Britain's indisputable authority on Italian cooking - shares a few of her top tips | Features | Lifestyle | The Independent



Del Conte writes that "one of the best possible ways to serve linguine" is with the "simplest of all dressings": garlic, olive oil and chilli flakes.

"It's important what you put in, but equally important what you leave out.
Somehow, the British use more sauce with pasta than it needs and you tend to add too much parmesan.
It should always be used with discretion."

I learnt why my rendition of the Venetian classic risi e bisi (rice and peas) never matches the one I had near the Rialto bridge ("should be made with very young peas"), why the gorgeous Tuscan bean soup ribollita tastes even better with keeping ("it should be prepared a day in advance to allow the flavours to develop before it is reheated, hence its name 'reboiled'") and why the strands of my cooked spaghetti lack life after draining. (It does not have the requisite goccia or a drop of moisture: "Experts never drain through a colander but lift it out of the water with tongs... spaghetti should be quite moist when the sauce is added".)

"...how to overcome the "invasively metallic" taste of tomato purée. Here's the advice in The Gastronomy of Italy: "[It] should be used sparingly and allowed to cook in the sauce for some time. A small amount of sugar helps the process."

"In salads, there's a lack of oil and too much vinegar. It should be four parts of olive oil to one or two of wine vinegar or lemon juice," said Del Conte. "In Italy, we say you need four people to dress a bowl of salad. A generous person to pour the oil, a wise person to sprinkle the salt, a miser to add the vinegar and a patient person to toss it – 33 times is said to be the minimum. Where pasta dishes call for butter, I don't think you use enough. One chef was amazed at the amount I used."

Oliver, was "the ideal taster and tester. He did not have a very discerning palate... If he described a dish as 'rather bland' I knew it would not be appreciated by the average English eater." According to Del Conte, the Italian condiment company Sacla increases the quantity of garlic in its pesto destined for Britain. Contrary to popular belief, she says, "the Italian use of garlic is very moderate".

Peperonata, a southern stew of pepper, onion and tomato, "is now popular everywhere... Excellent with a plain frittata.
If any is left over, it makes a delicious sauce for spaghetti".

Anna Del Conte’s ragù bolognese sauce.

Greatest recipes ever: Anna Del Conte’s ragù bolognese sauce - Country Life
‘Anna is the queen of Italian cookery, and this is as far removed from the ghastly spag bol (made with cheap mince, burnt onions and ketchup) as it can be. This is a slow-cooked classic.’ /Tom Parker Bowles/

Ragù bolognese sauce
Extract from Anna Del Conte’s The Classic Food of Northern Italy Published by Pavilion Books.
Makes enough for six helpings of pasta.
Ragù is the perfect example of Bolognese cooking: rich yet well balanced, lavish yet restrained, meaty yet fresh-tasting.
There are hundreds of versions of ragù, but the classic one, the one that everybody identifies with its place of origin, is the bolognese.

Nowadays, ragù is out of fashion-too rich, unhealthy, bad for the heart, bad for everything, but certainly not bad for the palate.
This recipe is not too rich, I think.
It follows closely the precepts of a classic ragù, but is lighter on fat.
Remember that it is important to chop the vegetables finely, so that they are the size of grains of rice.

Ingredients
60g/2oz butter
2tbsp extra virgin olive oil
60g/2oz unsmoked pancetta, finely chopped
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 bay leaf
400g/14oz lean chuck or braising beef, coarsely minced
2tbsp concentrated tomato paste
150ml/5fl oz red wine, such as a Sangiovese or a Barbera
2 pinches of grated nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground pepper
150ml/5fl oz meat stock
150ml/5fl oz full fat milk

Method
Heat the butter and oil in a heavy-based saucepan and cook the pancetta for 5 minutes, stirring frequently.
Add the onion, and when it has begun to soften, add the carrot, celery, garlic and bay leaf.
Cook for a further 10 minutes, stirring frequently.

Put in the minced beef and cook until it is medium brown in colour and nearly crisp, crumbling it in the pot with a fork.
Do this over a high heat so that the meat browns rather than stews, but be careful not to let the mince become too brown and hard.

Add the tomato paste and continue to cook over a high heat fr a further 2 minutes.
Still over a high heat, add the wine, nutmeg, salt and pepper and the stock.

Bring to the boil, then turn the heat down to very low, so that the mixture will reduce very slowly.

Set the lid askew over the pan and cook for about 2 hours, adding a couple of tablespoons of milk from time to time.
By the end of this time all the milk should have been added and absorbed, and the ragù should be rich and thick, like a thick soup.

Taste and adjust the seasoning.
The ragù is now ready to dress a dish of homemade tagliatelle, thus producing one of the greatest dishes of Emilia.

PS
Del Conte:
"Spaghetti bolognese originated in New York.
The clever immigrants put them together to suit American taste but ragu is never served with spaghetti in Italy.
Spaghetti keeps the sauce on the outside, so it's better for oily sauces like pesto.
Tagliatelle is more absorbing because of the eggs it contains, so it's ideal for meat ragu – but don't use too much.

For every 400g of dried pasta, there should be no more than 350g of meat ragu.
In Britain, we have ragu with pasta.
In Italy, it's pasta with ragu."

Italians relish pasta for its own sake.

Risotto with Lemon (Risotto al Limone).

Anna Del Conte was born in Milan but left in 1949 to learn English in London, where she met her husband Oliver Waley (1925–2007).

She published her first book, Portrait of Pasta, in 1975.
She became the first cookery writer in England to specialise in Italian food. Since then she has written 7 Italian cookery books and a memoir.
Her books have won countless prizes.
Today Anna Del Conte lives in Dorset on the outskirts of Shaftesbury.

Risotto with Lemon (Risotto al Limone) - The Happy Foodie

Serves 2
2 shallots
1 stick of celery
60g unsalted butter
1 tbs olive oil (not extra virgin)
300g risotto rice, preferably Vialone Nano
1 litre vegetable stock (I use Marigold stock powder)
zest and juice of 1/2 unwaxed lemon
needles from 2 small sprigs of fresh rosemary, finely chopped
1 egg yolk
60ml (4 tbs) grated parmesan, plus more to sprinkle
60ml (4 tbs) double cream
Maldon salt to taste
good grating pepper, preferably white


Put the shallots and celery into a Magimix and blitz until they are a finely chopped mush.
Heat half the butter, the oil and the shallot and celery mixture in a wide saucepan, and cook to soften the mixture for about 5 minutes, making sure it doesn't catch.
Mix in the rice, stirring to give it a good coating of oil and butter.
Meanwhile, heat the stock in another saucepan and keep it at simmering point.

Pour a ladleful of the stock into the rice and keep stirring until the stock is absorbed.
Then add another ladleful and stir again.
Continue doing this until the rice is al dente.
You may not need all of the stock; equally, you may need to add hot water from the kettle.

Mix the lemon zest and the rosemary into the risotto, and in a small bowl beat the egg yolk, lemon juice, parmesan, cream and pepper.

When the risotto is ready - when the rice is no longer chalky, but still has some bite - take it off the heat and add the bowl of eggy, lemony mixture, and the remaining butter and salt to taste.
Serve with more grated parmesan if you wish, check the seasoning and dive in.

Anna's husband was her 'chief taster' because he had a British palat.
Anna and Waley shared a respect for reserve, for the British stiff upper lip and a dislike of the modern cult of sentimentality – 'all that crying and hugging and saying, "Love yoooo!" and, "You are amazing!' she says, with a curl of the lip. 'But I do love the British sense of humour – the Italians have none at all. Oliver [who died in 2007] was extremely witty, quick witted. He'd make a slight remark, quickly said, almost under his breath, that would be so funny and clever.' He was the first reader of all her books and the first taster of her recipes. It was a long and happy marriage, so readers of her recent biography, Risotto with Nettles, were taken aback by her almost casual admission of a passionate affair 10 years into her marriage and two other more minor affairs later.

- Dorset lives – Anna del Conte | Dorset Life - The Dorset Magazine
- Meeting Anna del Conte | The Foodie Bugle
- Books by Anna Del Conte!

Wednesday 21 October 2015

Spicy Corn Soup.

Spicy Corn Soup | Williams-Sonoma

Serves 4.
Ingredients:
3 bacon slices, chopped
1 small yellow onion, chopped
1 celery stalk, chopped
1 poblano chili, seeded and chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
4 cups milk
1 cup heavy cream
2 boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into bite-size cubes
3 cups corn kernels, fresh or frozen
1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions:
Cook the bacon and vegetables
In a large saucepan over medium heat, cook the bacon, stirring occasionally, until it begins to crisp, about 5 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain.
Add the onion, celery, chili and garlic to the bacon drippings in the pan and sauté just until lightly browned, 6 to 7 minutes.

Simmer the soup
Increase the heat to medium-high, add the milk, cream and potatoes and bring to a boil.
Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.
Stir in the corn and red pepper flakes and simmer until the corn is tender, about 5 minutes.

Puree the soup
Transfer about 2 cups of the solids to a blender or food processor and process to a smooth puree.
Return the soup to the pan and reheat to serving temperature.
Season with salt and black pepper.
Ladle the soup into warmed bowls, garnish with the bacon and serve immediately.


Adapted from Williams-Sonoma Food Made Fast Series, Soup, by Georgeanne Brennan (Oxmoor House, 2006).

Fresh Corn Soup.

Fresh Corn Soup - David Lebovitz
Four servings

From The Beekman1802 Heirloom Vegetable Cookbook by Brent Ridge and Josh Kilmer-Purcell

As mentioned, I used whole milk in lieu of heavy cream.
You can use cream (or crème fraîche) if you want to make the soup richer.
If you don’t have chipotle powder, you can use good-quality smoked paprika.
Not into smokiness? Use sweet paprika.

The red pepper that I used was long and somewhat mild, similar to an Anaheim or poblano pepper.
To dial-up the smokiness, add bits of crisp bacon or cubed smoked tofu to the soup, during the final warming.

3 ears fresh corn
1 fresh pepper (Anaheim or poblano)
2 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
3 1/2 cups (800ml) water
3 tablespoons butter, salted or unsalted
1 small red onion, peeled and diced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1/4 teaspoon chipotle powder or smoked paprika
1/2 cup (125ml) whole milk or heavy cream
For garnish: Chopped fresh basil, flat-leaf parsley, or chives

1. Preheat the oven to 375ºF (190ºC.)

2. Shuck the corn and holding each ear of corn vertically over a baking sheet, use a chef’s knife to slice off the kernels of corn. (Reserve the cobs.)
Remove the stem of the pepper, slice it lengthwise, and remove the seeds.
Dice the pepper into pieces the size of the corn kernels.

3. Toss the corn kernels and pepper with the olive oil and salt, spread evenly on the baking sheet, and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring a couple of times – roasting until the corn just starts to brown a bit.

4. While the corn is cooking, cut the cobs into 4 pieces and put them in a saucepan with the water.
Bring to a simmer, cover, and let cook for 30 minutes over low heat, to extract the corn flavor.

5. Melt the butter in a large saucepan.
Add the onions and garlic, and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until translucent, 6 to 8 minutes.

6. Add the roasted corn and peppers to the pot, then strain the corn cob liquid into the pot as well.
Stir in the chipotle powder or paprika, and bring to a boil.
Simmer for a few minutes, and add the milk or cream.
Taste for salt, adding more if desired.
When warmed through, ladle the soup into bowls.
Top each with chopped basil, parsley, or chives.

Storage: The soup can be made up to two days in advance. The flavor actually gets better if it sits for a day.

- Roasted Tomato Soup with Corn Salsa | David Lebovitz:

Tuesday 20 October 2015

Mary Berry sugar free carrot cake.

Mary Berry sugar free carrot cake recipe on The Great British Bake Off Masterclass 2015 | TV Foods
Mary Berry and Paul Hollywood make a delicious sugar free carrot cake using agave syrup and maple syrup as sweeteners on The Great British Bake Off Masterclass 2015.

The ingredients are:
200ml vegetable oil,
3 free-range eggs,
175ml agave syrup (also known as agave nectar),
400g carrots, peeled and grated,
275g self-raising flour,
2 tsp baking powder,
1 tsp ground cinnamon,
1 tsp mixed spice,
150g sultanas,
150g walnuts pieces and 1 orange,
finely grated zest only.

For the frosting:
400g full-fat cream cheese,
50g unsalted butter, softened,
50ml maple syrup,
25g walnut pieces,
chopped and ground cinnamon, for dusting.

Preparation method
Preheat the oven to 180C/160C Fan/Gas 4.
Oil and line 2 x 20cm/8in sandwich tins.

Pour the oil into a large mixing bowl with the eggs and agave syrup and beat together.
Add the carrots and mix together.
In a separate bowl, sieve the flour, baking powder, cinnamon and mixed spice together.
Add the sultanas, walnuts and orange zest and stir to coat in the flour.
Tip the flour mixture into the carrot mixture and stir together gently, until well combined.
Divide the mixture between the tins and bake for 40 minutes.
Cover with aluminium foil after 20-30 minutes to prevent the tops from burning.
Leave to cool in the tins for 5 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack and leave to cool completely.

For the frosting, place the cream cheese in a piece of clean muslin or thin cleaning cloth (such as a J Cloth) and squeeze out any liquid. (This removes the moisture from the cheese so that the frosting isn’t too wet).
Place the cream cheese in a bowl and beat until smooth.
Add the butter and maple syrup and beat together.
Refrigerate until needed.
Sandwich the sponges together with half of the frosting.
Spread a very thin layer of frosting over the top of the cake and spoon the remaining frosting into a piping bag fitted with a 1cm/½in plain nozzle.
Sprinkle the chopped walnuts over the top of the frosting.
Pipe small kisses of frosting around the edge of the cake and dust with cinnamon.

Monday 19 October 2015

Moussaka.

Rick Stein From Venice to Istanbul Moussaka recipe
Recipe of the month is from Rick’s latest adventures From Venice to Istanbul. Here’s the delicious moussaka recipe he discovered in Greece.
“I jumped at the chance of visiting his house in Kardamyli.
I spoke to his housekeeper, Elpida, who agreed to cook me the moussaka loved by the great man.
She fries everything separately first, including the potatoes, which don’t always come as part of a moussaka. Put in the base of the dish, the potatoes act like a sponge, soaking up all the meat juices released during cooking. ”

So:
Salt
1 aubergine, sliced lengthways
3 courgettes, sliced lengthways
About 300ml olive oil
2 large potatoes, peeled and sliced lengthways
2 small onions, chopped
10g/2 cloves garlic, chopped
750g minced beef
3 beefsteak tomatoes, chopped
1 cinnamon stick
1 bay leaf
12 turns black peppermill
For the béchamel
100ml butter
100g plain flour
750ml full-fat milk
3 eggs
¼ tsp grated nutmeg
150g graviera cheese (or Gruyère if unavailable), freshly grated

Begin by salting the aubergine and courgette slices and leaving them for about 30 minutes, then rinse and dry on kitchen paper.
Fry in plenty of the olive oil over a medium heat until lightly browned and starting to soften, then drain on kitchen paper and set aside.
Fry the potatoes in the same way.

In a separate pan, heat 70ml of the olive oil and fry the onions and garlic for 5 minutes until softened.
Add the minced beef and brown it before adding the tomatoes,cinnamon stick, bay leaf, ₁½ teapoons salt and the pepper.
Simmer for 30–40 minutes.
When done, remove the cinnamon and bay leaf.

In a deep ovenproof dish, about 24cm x 35cm, arrange the potatoes in a layer.
Top with a third of the beef, then the aubergine, another third of the beef, the courgettes, and finish with the remaining beef.

Heat the oven to 220°C/gas 7.
Make the béchamel sauce: melt the butter in a saucepan over a gentle heat, stir in the flour and cook for 2 minutes so it loses its raw taste.
Slowly incorporate the milk, and continue stirring until the sauce thickens.
Remove from the heat and whisk in the eggs,nutmeg and 100g of the grated cheese.
Spread the béchamel over the layered meat and vegetables and top with a further 50g grated cheese.
Bake for 30 minutes, then take out and leave to cool.
Serve warm.
The dish is also very good the following day.

Sunday 18 October 2015

How to cook perfect moussaka.

How to cook perfect moussaka | Life and style | The Guardian
Serves 4, generously

4 tbsp olive oil
3 medium or 2 large aubergines, sliced
1 large onion, finely chopped
4 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
1.5 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp dried oregano
500g minced lamb
2 tbsp tomato purée, mixed with 150ml water
150ml red wine
Small bunch of flat-leaf parsley, chopped

For the bechamel:
500ml milk
60g butter
60g plain flour
50g kefalotyri or pecorino cheese, grated
2 eggs, beaten
Nutmeg, to grate

1. Pre-heat the oven to 180C.
Cut the aubergines lengthways into 0.5cm slices, and put them on to oiled baking sheets.
Brush with olive oil and season.
Bake for about 25 minutes until soft, golden and floppy.
- Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall - Hugh's baked aubergines, then, are a godsend: no need to salt them, as he does – simply brush with oil and stick in the already-heating oven for 25 minutes until soft, but pleasantly light on the grease front.

2. Meanwhile, put 2 tbsp olive oil into a large frying pan over a medium high heat and cook the onion until soft.
Add the garlic, cinnamon and oregano and cook for a further couple of minutes, then stir in the lamb.
Turn up the heat slightly, and brown the lamb well, cooking until the mixture is quite dry.
Stir in the tomato and wine, bring to a simmer, then turn the heat down low and cook for 30–40 minutes until most of the liquid has evaporated.
Season and stir in the parsley.

3. Meanwhile, make the bechamel.
Bring the milk to just below boiling point, and melt the butter in another saucepan.
Stir the flour into the butter and cook for a couple of minutes, then gradually whisk in the hot milk.
Cook until you have a thick sauce, then stir in the cheese until melted.
Take off the heat and allow to cool slightly, then beat in the eggs, salt to taste and slightly more nutmeg than you might think wise (it's a strong flavour, but you need a heft of it in this dish I think - half a teaspoon at least).

Just like it’s important to have a thick mince sauce, it’s crucial to have a thick and smooth béchamel.
Thick so it won’t slide through your layers of mince and aubergine and burn at the bottom of tray with your mousaka dish and smooth, well who wants lumps of flour balls in their mouth?

4. Arrange a third of the aubergines in the base of an oven dish, and top with half the meat.
Repeat these layers, then finish off with a layer of aubergine, and top with the sauce.
Bake for about 45 minutes until well browned, and then leave to cool for half an hour before serving.

What kind of moussaka floats your pedalo – does the Greek version have the monopoly here for good reason?
Where do you stand on the question of beef v lamb ... or do you prefer vegetables?
And which other dishes have you brought back from your hols?

If we are cooking a dish like mousaka, we might as well get it right, with all its glory and forget about the health aspects for just this once.)))

More:
- Mousaka making at the Greek Cookery Class | Greekfoodlovers' Supper Club
- the cake + the knife, a love story: Tessa's Moussaka for Dan.

Friday 16 October 2015

Easy Parmesan "Risotto".

Easy Parmesan "Risotto" Recipe : Ina Garten : Food Network
Ingredients:
1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
5 cups simmering chicken stock, preferably homemade, divided
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 cup dry white wine
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, diced
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup frozen peas

Directions
Preheat the oven to 175C.

Place the rice and 4 cups of the chicken stock in a Dutch oven, such as Le Creuset.
Cover and bake for 45 minutes, until most of the liquid is absorbed and the rice is al dente.
Remove from the oven, add the remaining cup of chicken stock, the Parmesan, wine, butter, salt, and pepper, and stir vigorously for 2 to 3 minutes, until the rice is thick and creamy.
Add the peas and stir until heated through.
Serve hot.

Perfect risotto.

How to make the perfect risotto | Life and style | The Guardian:
- Felicity's perfect risotto.

Serves two.

Half an onion, finely chopped
25g butter or 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1.25l good stock, chicken or vegetable
200g carnaroli rice
50g unsalted butter, diced
50g Parmesan or Grana Padano (for a vegetarian option) cheese, grated

- Bring the stock to the boil (cubes will often be too salty, so taste and water it down if necessary).

- Melt the 25g of butter (or use the vegetable oil) and soften the onion in a heavy-bottomed, straight-sided pan, then add the carnaroli rice.
Turn up the heat, and stir to coat the grains with butter.

- When they are hot, add a small glass of white wine, and keep stirring until this has evaporated.
Then you're ready to start adding the stock, a ladleful at a time.
Stir until it has nearly all been absorbed – the rice should always be sloppy, rather than dry – and then add another, and so on.

- Add any extra ingredients at some point during this time, depending on how robust they are – usually about 10 minutes in.

- When the rice begins to soften (after about 13 minutes, but the only way to know is to keep checking), add the stock in smaller amounts, and test it regularly, until it is cooked to your liking.

Then add 50g of diced butter, and 50g of grated cheese, and beat in with gusto, until the risotto is rich and creamy.
Check the seasoning, then serve immediately.

- Risotto of Tomato Essence - Raymond Blanc OBE:

- Raymond Blanc’s tomato essence risotto | Food is my happy place: "Raymond Blanc’s tomato essence risotto"

Perfect Risotto.

Perfect Risotto | Serious Eats
Ingredients:
1 1/2 cups (about 400 gram) risotto-style rice (see note)
1 L low-sodium chicken broth
1 cup white wine (optional—can be replaced with extra broth)
2 tablespoons butter (plus more for finishing if desired)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium cloves garlic, grated on a microplane grater (about 2 teaspoons)
2 small shallots, finely minced (about 2 tablespoons)
3/4 cup heavy cream, whipped to stiff peaks
3 ounces finely grated parmesan
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Chopped herbs or other garnishes, as desired

Directions:
- Combine rice, chicken stock, and wine in a large bowl.
Agitate rice with fingers or a whisk to release starch.
Strain through a fine mesh strainer set in a 2-quart liquid cup measure or other large bowl.
Allow to drain five minutes, stirring rice occasionally.

- Heat butter and oil in a heavy 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until foaming subsides.
Add rice and cook, stirring and tossing frequently until all liquid is evaporated, fat is bubbling, and rice has begun to take on a golden blond color and nutty aroma, about 5 minutes.
Add garlic and shallots and continue to cook, stirring frequently until aromatic, about 1 minute.
Give reserved broth a good stir and pour all but one cup over the rice.
Increase heat to high and heat until simmering.
Stir rice once, cover, and reduce heat to lowest possible setting.

- Cook rice for ten minutes undisturbed.
Stir once, shake pan gently to redistribute rice, cover, and continue cooking until liquid is mostly absorbed and rice is tender with just a faint bite, about 10 minutes longer.

- Remove lid and add final cup of liquid.
Increase heat to high and cook, stirring and shaking rice constantly until thick and creamy.
Off heat, fold in heavy cream and cheese.
Season to taste with salt and pepper and stir in herbs as desired.
Serve immediately on hot plates.

Cooking with Lovage.

- LovageThe Epicentre:
Cooking with Lovage
Ancient Greeks and Romans commonly used the seeds, leaves, and roots in their cooking.
Today, lovage is a favorite flavoring in Britain and southeastern Europe.
It is eaten cooked or raw.

The leaves are used in soups, stocks, flavored vinegars, pickles, stews, and salads.
In Italy, lovage is used with oregano and garlic for tomato sauces.

The seeds are sprinkled over salads and mashed potatoes and are crushed for breads, pastries, biscuits, and cheeses.

The stems and stalks are chopped for use in sauces and stews, while the crystallized leaves and stems are used for decorating cakes.

The roots are peeled to remove the bitter skin and are then used as a vegetable or are pickled.
Add the chopped leaves to casseroles for an really interesting flavor.

The anise, celery flavor of the lovage works really well.
Lovage is great when cooking lentils- sweat a few leaves with onions , then let the lentils cook slowly with the lovage.
Pesto is traditionally made with basil, but can be made with most herbs.
Try it using sorrel and lovage.
Lovage can be used on a pizza topping or add a handful of chopped lovage on pasta.
Lovage is excellent with fish, such as salmon.
Chop the leaves in a fresh leaf and herb salad- dress with your favorite dressing.
Lovage soup is delicious.
Leek and lovage soup really work well together.

- Lovage recipes | Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall | Life and style | The Guardian

Baked Apples.


Ingredients:


For the filling:
16 dried apricots (see note above)
4 dried Calimyrna figs
4 pitted soft prunes
2 dried pear halves, each cut into 4 pieces
1/4 cup dried cranberries
1/4 cup raisins
1 cup sweet apple cider

4 baking apples such as Rome Beauty, Fuji or Jonagold
2/3 cup thawed, frozen apple juice concentrate
1/3 cup honey (see note above)

Directions:
To make the filling, in a heatproof bowl, combine the apricots, figs, prunes, pears, cranberries and raisins.
In a small saucepan, bring the cider to a boil.
Pour the hot liquid over the fruits.
Let stand until the fruits have plumped, 30 to 60 minutes.
Preheat an oven to 175°C.

Using a sharp knife, cut a slice 1/2 inch thick off the stem end of each apple.
Using a melon baller, scoop out and discard the core from each apple, being careful not to puncture the base of the apple.
Then, still using the melon baller, carve out the flesh to leave a shell 1/2 inch thick.
Discard the flesh or reserve for another use.
Stand the apples in a baking dish just large enough to hold them upright.

Drain the plumped fruits in a sieve held over the baking dish.
Spoon the fruits into the apple cavities, dividing them evenly and heaping them high.
Cut out four 5-inch square pieces of aluminium foil and tent a piece over the stuffing in each apple.
Bake the apples until a knife pierces the bottom with only slight resistance but the sides retain their shape, 35 to 40 minutes.
Remove from the oven and lift off the foil.

When the apples are cool enough to handle, after about 20 minutes, use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a serving platter.
Spoon back in place any of the fruit stuffing that fell off.
Discard the liquid remaining in the dish.

While the apples are cooling, in a saucepan, combine the apple juice concentrate and the honey.
Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the liquid is syrupy and reduced by about one-third, about 8 minutes.
Spoon the hot glaze over the stuffing and apples until it pools in the bottom of the platter.
Serve warm or at room temperature.
Serves 4.

Adapted from Williams-Sonoma, Essentials of Healthful Cooking, by Mary Abbott Hess, Dana Jacobi & Marie Simmons (Oxmoor House, 2003).

more: Baked Apples with Maple and Granola Recipe

Potimarron- Pumpkin - Hokkaido Squash.

Potimarron, a.k.a. Hokkaido squash, is a winter squash with a delicate chestnut flavor.
Its French name is in fact a portmanteau of potiron (pumpkin) and marron (chestnut), and the skin of young specimens is soft enough that you don’t have to peel it.

- Oh, and get this: the longer a potimarron is stored, the more its vitamin and sugar content develops.
Potimarron is great puréed with carrots!

Wednesday 14 October 2015

Gratin of red kuri squash.

Gratin of red kuri squash - The Boston Globe
Gratin - a dish topped with a browned crust, often using breadcrumbs, grated cheese, egg and/or butter.
Like many varieties of winter squash, red kuri squash (also known as Japanese squash, orange hokkaido, or uchiki kuri squash) offers a promise of nourishing dinners.
With its bright orange skin, and small teardrop shape, you'll easily recognize kuri; inside, the firm flesh has a creamy chestnut-like flavor.
Baked, braised, steamed, or pureed, this squash tastes wonderful; serve it as a side dish or use it as a base for soups.
For this simple gratin, you don't need to peel the squash.
Roast, steam, or boil it with potatoes, then puree them, and stir in grated zucchini.
Add ricotta, parsley, and a flavorful cheese (blue works well).
After half an hour, you have a delicious side dish that will make you rejoice over fall's harvest.

Butter (for the dish)
1 small red kuri squash (a generous 1 pound), seeded and sliced
2 baking potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces
1 small zucchini, grated
2/3 cup ricotta
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, plus more for the top
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1/2 cup grated Fontina or crumbled blue cheese
Salt and pepper, to taste

- tablespoon butter, cut up (for the top)
1. Set the oven at 200C.
Butter an 20cm square baking dish.

2. In a large saucepan fitted with a steamer insert, combine the squash and potatoes.
Bring to a boil, cover the pan, and steam over high heat for 15 minutes or until the vegetables are tender when pierced with a skewer.

3. Using a food mill or ricer set over a bowl, work the vegetables to form a puree.
Or mash them with a potato masher until they are coarsely pureed.
Add the zucchini, ricotta, nutmeg, parsley, 1/4 cup of cheese, and plenty of salt and pepper.

4. Transfer the mixture to the baking dish.
Smooth the top.
Add the remaining 1/4 cup cheese, butter, and a sprinkle of nutmeg.

5. Bake for 30 minutes or until the top is golden.
Let the dish rest for 5 minutes before serving.

Tuesday 13 October 2015

Nutribullet and its rivals tested.

Ready steady, shake: Nutribullet and its rivals tested | Life and style | The Guardian
5 Nutribullet £79.99, lakeland.co.uk

First impressions: It shouts at me: “STOP THROWING DISEASE-FIGHTING NUTRITION DOWN THE DRAIN!” It looks like the Gherkin. It’s weighty and solid, with a lovely texture, as if it’s clad in vanillin crystals. The blades are far bigger than any other so far, which is only fitting because this is “the all new, revolutionary Extractor Blade”. It comes with a spare 500ml cup and a 680ml. The “life coach”-style user guide and recipe book feature so many jubilant couples I wonder if there’s some sort of tie-in to Match.com. It includes 20 pages where you can write about your “journey”.

Green juice: I can drink this! We can all drink this. Apart from the very occasional giveaway speck of cucumber skin, this could be an avocado smoothie. It has a slight texture, but it is uniform and very fine.

Protein shake: On the eye – all berry skin traces are gone – and to taste, it’s the smoothest yet. This could have been sieved.

Who is this for? Everyone, clearly.

5/5

Тыква по-корейски.

Тыква по-корейски - Консервация и Сохранение
500-600г тыквы без кожуры и семечек
1 луковица
1 ст.л. мёда
1 ст.л. яблочного уксуса
3 зуб. чеснока
соль, растительное масло, молотый кориандр, молотый мускатный орех, смесь перцев

Тыкву шинкуем тонкой соломкой как для моркови по-корейски (можно просто натереть на крупной тёрке), луковицу мелко рубим, обжариваем в масле до золотистого цвета, остужаем. Смешиваем тыкву с луком, выдавленным чесноком и всеми приправами. Тщательно перемешиваем, убираем в холод часа на четыре, желательно положить гнёт.
Можно есть =)

Главный секрет этого салата - кориандр. Набор специй можно взять любой, по вашему вкусу, главное, чтобы присутствовал кориандр. Именно он придаёт блюду "корейский" вкус. Можно воспользоваться магазинной приправой "для корейкой моркови" в пакетиках.

Кабачки по-корейски | Корейские салаты

Monday 12 October 2015

Lovage Syrup.

2 cups granulated sugar
2 cups water
1 cup (packed) lovage leaves
Combine the sugar and water in a pot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Stir until sugar has dissolved. Add the lovage leaves and stir to combine. Remove from heat, cover, and let steep for 2-3 hours. Strain syrup into a glass jar (pressing on leaves to extract all of the syrup) and store in the refrigerator. The syrup will keep well for at least a couple of months.
Lovage: A big plant with an even bigger flavor

Spiralized Mexican Sweet Potato.


Ingredients:
1 sweet potatoes, spiralized and cut into 15 cm lengths
1/2 tin chopped plum tomatoes
1 fresh chile peppers
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 onion (quartered)
4 garlic cloves
1/4 tsp cumin powder
1/4 tsp kosher salt
1/8 tsp black pepper
1 cup frozen corn
1 can black beans, rinsed and drained
100 gr cheese for topping
spring onion for topping (optional)

Preheat oven to 200°C.

Place the spiralized sweet potatoes with the smallest noodle blade and place them in a 25 x 25 cm casserole dish.

In a medium skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat and add the garlic and onion, saute until browned.
Transfer to the blender along with chile peppers, tomatoes, cumin, salt, and pepper and blend well.
Pour the mixture into the large bowl with black beans and corn.
Mix to combine, then pour over the spiralized sweet potatoes, making sure the sauce mixes well and gets in between the spirals.
Top with cheese, cover with aluminum foil and bake 1 hour, or until the sweet potatoes are tender.
When ready to serve top with scallions and serve.

Adapted from: Spiralized Mexican Sweet Potato and Chicken Casserole | Skinnytaste

Ragu & Courgette Spaghetti.

Hemsley & Hemsley Quick Ragu & Courgette Spaghetti Recipe (Vogue.co.uk):

Ragu is a meat-based sauce, commonly served with pasta, the most famous being ragu alla Bolognese - or spag bol to you and me - the nation's favourite.
- Ragu Recipe!
Ragu became popular in the 1830s and started off as just ground veal fried in butter then slow-cooked in broth. It has now evolved into more of a tomato sauce flavoured with beef. There are many variations of what else goes into the sauce, but as ever we like to squeeze in as many vegetables as possible and even throw in a nutritious chicken liver for added flavour. Garlic is not a traditional ingredient in the classical Bolognese sauce, but we are moving with the times and adding in this powerfully medicinal ingredient wherever we can. Seasoning is usually limited to salt, pepper and a bay leaf and the occasional pinch of nutmeg. Our adopted "Nonna" took it one step further and swore by mixed spice in her sauces.
An alternative for some might be gluten-free buckwheat noodles but since we don't like to mix protein and high starch (for easier digestion) we make the genius substitution of courgette, neatly cut (using The Spiralizer, the most fun gadget to ever be found in a kitchen) into long strands of "spaghetti" or, as we like to call it, courgetti!

Use a spiralizer/julienne peeler on the courgette.
Or use a vegetable peeler and then a knife to slice the courgette strips into spaghetti type strands.
- Wilt the courgetti using a little butter and water in a pan.
Or, to be more authentic in your service and to save time and washing up, just run some of the sauce hot from the stove through your spirals and the heat and salt in the sauce will soften them.
- Stir the parsley through the ragu, check the seasoning and serve on top of a pile of courgette spaghetti with fresh parmesan and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil to serve.
Alternatively stir half the sauce through a bowl of courgetti and then serve each portion with a little more ragu on top, a drizzle of olive oil and fresh parmesan.
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Classic Ragu Sauce. The Chiappas.

Classic Ragu Sauce | The Chiappas
Welsh-Italian chef Michela Chiappa.
The best Ragu Sauce to my taste!

The real secret to this dish is simmering for 3 hours. It changes the taste as the meat is soft and tender and no tinned tomatoes are needed!

PREPARATION TIME: 30 mins
COOKING TIME: 3 hours
SERVES: 10

Ingredients:
100g smoked pancetta, roughly chopped
1 red onion, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
2 sticks celery, peeled and finely chopped
1kg good-quality beef mince
Good glug of red wine
140g tomato purée
2 beef stock cubes
2 bay leaves
Parmesan, to serve
Extra virgin olive oil

Method:
Put a large pan on a medium heat.
Once hot add the smoked pancetta and fry for 2-3 minutes on a low heat, or until starting to crisp up.
Then add the red onion, carrot and celery.
Stir together and sweat for roughly 10 minutes with lid on, or until soft and translucent.
Next add your beef to the pan, stirring occasionally until the beef has browned.
Add a good swig of red wine and keep stirring.
The aim is to burn off the alcohol leaving just a hint of the lovely wine flavour.
Add the tomato purée and stir into the sauce, then add 500ml (OR LESS!) of boiling water from the kettle and crumble in the beef stock cubes and the bay leaves.
Put the lid on and simmer for 3 hours to let the flavours intensify and the beef break down.

To serve the dish:
When ready to cook the pasta, place a large casserole dish on the heat and fill with boiling water and a generous pinch of salt.
Cook the pasta for approximately 2 minutes (although this will depend on the thickness of your pasta).
Always taste it and you want it soft but ‘al dente,’ which means the pasta will have a subtle bite to it.
It should not turn to mush as this is overcooked.
To serve place the pasta in a pan with the hot sauce.
You should only use 1-2 tablespoons of sauce per portion – don’t overload the sauce; the pasta should not be swimming in bolognaise!
Mix the pasta and sauce on the heat so that the sauce coats the pasta.
Add a splash of pasta water if needed to loosen the sauce and finish with a grating of parmesan and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.
Serve immediately to avoid the pasta overcooking!

Cook’s tips:
You can use dried pasta with this sauce if you don’t have time to make fresh pasta.
Simply use about 1kg of pasta for 8-10 people.
This recipe works brilliantly with tagliatelle.
Avoid using spaghetti as a wider pasta holds the sauce better.
This recipe is fantastic to make in a large batch and then freeze in individual portions – it takes time to make a really tasty ragu so it’s worth making lots so you can enjoy after a hard day’s work!
Heat the sauce from frozen.
Always taste as you go for seasoning – we love lots of parmesan as this avoids having to use too much salt.
But before you mix your pasta into your sauce, check it for salt, pepper and parmesan.

Also:
- MARCELLA HAZAN'S BOLOGNESE SAUCE recipe | Epicurious.com

Sunday 11 October 2015

Rachel Roddy successful blog.

Sicily and Rome: two journeys, two kitchens - FT.com
Food writer Rachel Roddy grew up in a town outside London, one of three, and trained as an actress before moving to Italy in 2005, from where she now writes her hugely successful blog racheleats.wordpress.com.
Roddy lives in Rome with her partner and son, Luca.
What prompted the move to Italy?
As an actress I worked, and then I didn’t work, at which point I became a waitress who preferred helping out in the kitchen rather than ferrying plates. Then I worked as an actress again, finally getting sort of jobs I had always wanted, but by then I realised acting wasn’t what I wanted to do. I had an idea I wanted to write, but nothing certain. I had some money saved so decided, impulsively, to travel. Naples was the starting point from where I traveled down to Sicily and then up to Rome, where I intended to stay for a short time before moving further southwards again.

Do as the Romans do: the secrets behind Italian cooking - Telegraph
Here she shares tips and recipes from her first book, Five Quarters.
Rachel's Roman dishes:
- Broad beans and pecorini recipe
- Pasta and potato soup recipe
- Courgettes cooked in olive oil recipe
- Spaghetti with olive oil, garlic and chilli recipe
- Classic Italian meatballs in tomato sauce recipe
- Baked peaches with butter and almonds recipe

Minestrone Soup.

Fun fact: There's actually no standard recipe for the ever-popular minestrone soup.
It's just a hearty Italian soup full of season vegetables.
Use this as a guideline.
You'll want to include the basics (onion, carrot, celery, canned tomatoes, stock, garlic, and herbs), but beyond that this soup is a blank canvas.
Try adding pasta, greens, corn, different beans, potatoes, or pre-cooked sausage.
Add wine, if desired, and cook until it's almost entirely reduced.

In Italian to denote largeness you add –one/-ona/-oni to the end of the word:
- minestra - a soup, becomes minestrone - big soup.
...It is cooked very slowly over a low heat...a stir every now and then.
The ingredients enter the pot one by one, as each one joins the previous one in the pan it is given an attentive and gentle 5 minute sautè before the next ingredient is added.

My version:
- cut everything - small cubes!
1 onion (I prefer red) onions, chopped
1/2 leek, white part only, washed and finely chopped
1 celery stalk, chopped
1 carrots, peeled and chopped
1 small *courgette/zucchini, chopped
2 cloves of garlic
1/2 can of 400g white beans (cannellini or navy), drained
1/2 can of 400g Chopped Tomatoes
2 tbs orzo (better separately boil)
1 tsp dried thyme
1/2 tsp dried sage
2 bay leaves
Salt and ground black pepper
herbs, chilli - optional
1 liter vegetable or chicken stock


Directions

Heat oil in a Dutch oven or heavy bottomed pot over medium heat.
Add onion, leek, celery, carrot, zucchini, and garlic, season with salt and pepper.
Stir to coat with oil and cook until tender, about 8 minutes.
Stir in tomatoes, orzo, herbs and stock.
Bring soup to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer uncovered for 30 minutes, adding cannellini beans in last 10 minutes of cooking.
Taste and season with salt and pepper, as desired.
... if you find the soup is looking too thick before it has finished cooking add a little more water.
Soup will keep for up to 1 week in the refrigerator or 3 months in the freezer.

*courgette/zucchini - Seasonal vegetables of your choice (at the moment, 1 courgette, diced, handful of fresh peas or broad beans, half a head of fennel, diced, 3 large leaves of cavolo nero, shredded)

Adapted from: How to cook perfect minestrone soup | Life and style | The Guardian

Saturday 10 October 2015

A Complete Guide to Pork Chops and How To Cook Juicy Pork Chops.

How To Cook Tender, Juicy Pork Chops Every Time | The Kitchn:
- A Complete Guide to Pork Chops — Meat Basics | The Kitchn:
Pork Chops.

Makes 2 to 4 pork chops
What You Need
Ingredients

For the brine (optional):
3 cups cold water, divided
3 tablespoons coarse kosher salt (or 2 1/2 tablespoons table salt)
Optional flavorings: 2 smashed garlic cloves, 1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns, 1 bay leaf

For the pork chops:
2 to 4 pork chops — center cut, bone-on, 3/4-inch to 1-inch thick (about 1 pound each) Olive oil
Salt
Pepper

Equipment
Shallow dish (for brining)
Large cast iron, stainless steel, or other oven-safe skillet
Tongs

Instructions
Brine the pork chops (optional): If you have time, brining the pork for even a brief period adds flavor and ensures juiciness in the finished chop.
Bring 1 cup of the water to a boil, add the salt and optional flavorings, and stir to dissolve the salt.
Add 2 more cups of cold water to bring the temperature of the brine down to room temperature.
Place the pork chops in a shallow dish and pour the brine over top.
The brine should cover the chops — if not, add additional water and salt (1 cup water to 1 tablespoon salt) until the chops are submerged.
Cover the dish and refrigerate for 30 minutes or up to 4 hours.

Heat the oven and skillet:
- Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 204°C.
- Place the skillet in the oven to preheat as well.

Season the pork chops: While the oven heats, prepare the pork chops.
Remove the chops from the brine; if you didn't brine, remove the chops from their packaging.
Pat dry with paper towels.
Rub both sides with olive oil, then sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Set the chops aside to warm while the oven finishes heating.

Remove the skillet from the oven:
Using oven mitts, carefully remove the hot skillet from the oven and set it over medium-high heat on the stovetop.
Turn on a vent fan or open a window.

Sear the pork chops:
Lay the pork chops in the hot skillet.
You should hear them immediately begin to sizzle.
Sear until the undersides of the chops are seared golden, 3 minutes.
The chops may start to smoke a little — that's ok.
Turn down the heat if it becomes excessive.

Flip the chops and transfer to the oven:
Use tongs to flip the pork chops to the other side.
Immediately transfer the skillet to the oven using oven mitts.

Roast the chops until cooked through:
Roast until the pork chops are cooked through and register 60°C to 62°C in the thickest part of the meat with an instant-read thermometer.
Cooking time will be 6 to 10 minutes depending on the thickness of the chops, how cool they were at the start of cooking, and whether they were brined.
Start checking the chops at 6 minutes and continue checking every minute or two until the chops are cooked through.

Rest the chops:
Transfer the cooked pork chops to a plate and pour any pan juices over the top (or reserve for making a pan sauce or gravy).
Tent loosely with foil and let the chops rest for at least 5 minutes before serving.

AND:
- The Best Slow-Cooked Meat Recipes | sheerluxe.com: The Best Slow-Cooked Meat Recipes!
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