Saute Pans | Choosing and Buying the Right Saute Pan : The Reluctant Gourmet: " There are a lot of great brand names when it come to cookware including All-Clad, Calphalon, Viking, Le Creuset and what you choose should be based on your own personal needs. I research and buy many of my cookware including saute pans at Amazon.com. They have most of the top named brands and you can usually find one at a great price."
How to choose the right cookware by Mark R. Vogel:
"The primary consideration in choosing cookware is the material it is constructed from. Copper is the most expensive but also the best heat conductor. Superior heat conduction allows for even cooking.
The problem with copper cookware, (beside the price), is reactivity. Copper, aluminum, and to a lesser extent cast iron, are “reactive” metals. That means they will chemically combine with certain foods, usually acidic ones, and alter the flavor and color of your preparation. Not to mention that you will be consuming unwanted levels of the metal.
Copper discolors and scratches easily as well. I would recommend at least having one good copper bowl for beating egg whites. For reasons scientifically complex involving copper ions, (which I will not bore you with here), copper is superior for beating egg whites to maximal volume.
Aluminum is a good heat conductor but as stated, reactive. Aluminum is also a soft metal and eventually wears down. It remains popular, especially in restaurant kitchens because it’s inexpensive. There are anodized aluminum pans, which are chemically treated to prevent reactivity. If you insist on aluminum, anodized is the way to go.
Cast iron is not a very good conductor, but once it gets hot, it stays hot for a long time, mainly because of its mass. Cast iron is heavy. It is also inexpensive. However it has drawbacks as well: rusting, pitting, reactivity, and sticking to food. For all of these reasons cast iron pans must be “seasoned.” This means coating the entire pan, inside and out with oil or shortening and baking it to seal the fat into the pan, or polymerize it. This will thwart rusting and reactivity, and give you a non-stick surface.
Of course this protective layer breaks down over time and the process must be repeated. Some cast iron pans are coated with enamel. This is an attempt to ameliorate the dilemmas of cast iron while maintaining exceptional heat retention. I have one cast iron skillet for searing steaks. Nothing aside from a grill will give you that deliciously charred exterior. Another thing to consider about cast iron is its weight. That 12″ cast iron skillet might look cool, but are you going to be able to pick it up when it’s full of food?
Stainless Steel is the ultimate compromise. It provides the mid range in price and heat conduction, is durable, easy to clean, and non-reactive. But wait, we can push the perfection curve even further.
I would recommend All-Clad.
I use non-stick pans when I don’t want to make a pan sauce or if I’m cooking something delicate like fish. Non stick is good with stir fry’s and of course omeletes too. Just a few ideas."
About this author
Mark R. Vogel received his doctorate in clinical psychology from Yeshiva University and his culinary arts degree from the Institute of Culinary Education, both in New York City. Although he still practices psychology, his deepest passion remains cooking at an Italian/Mediterranean restaurant in NJ and writing about food and wine. His column "Food For Thought" is published in a number of NJ, NY, and PA newspapers and food related websites. --- Mark R. Vogel
Interview with Mark Vogel, Food Writer, Culinary Educator:
CHEF JAMES: What advice would you give to someone in high school who would like to pursue a culinary career?
MARK VOGEL: That would depend on what area of the culinary world they wish to enter. One can become a traditional restaurant chef, a private chef and/or caterer, a food stylist, educator, writer, etc. Chefs work in test kitchens, for TV shows, and schools. It would be wise to try and get some early experience within the specific specialty one is interested in and/or tailor their education along those lines.
CHEF JAMES: If you were asked to choose 3 cookbooks or books about food to be included in a time capsule to be opened 500 years from now, what 3 would you choose?
MARK VOGEL: That's hard to say. Because of my food writing I have a small library of books at home that I rely on. I guess the ones I use most often are the Food Lover's Companion, Larousse Gastronomique and and Shirley Corriher's Cookwise. All of James Peterson's works deserve mention as well.
CHEF JAMES: Well, I guess I must began with an obvious question: How do a Doctorate in psychology and a culinary education fit together? Why did you decide to pursue a career with food?
MARK VOGEL: My interest in psychology preceded my passion for food & wine. Not by that many years though. Early in my career as a psychologist I started becoming interested in cooking and wine collecting. At first I watched cooking shows, bought cookbooks and basically practiced at home. I even took amateur cooking classes. Eventually I decided to pursue it professionally. I went to cooking school and also took professional classes in wine and food writing. I maintained my full time day job and did my culinary education and restaurant work on nights and weekends. The psychology pays the bills but the cooking feeds my soul.
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