Italian local, author of Florentine: The True Cuisine of Florence Emiko Davies is taking us on a grand tour of Italy, showing us how to make classic, fiercely regional dishes at home.
Emiko (half Japanese, half Australian) has lived in Florence for over 8 years with her Tuscan husband.
"Sweet, silky, and so much more than the sum of its parts, peperonata is a southern Italian stew of slow-cooked peppers, onions, and tomatoes that is on regular rotation on my summer table.
I buy what looks like way too many bright, firm peppers at the market (I go for red, usually, but there's nothing stopping you from adding some yellow ones, too.
And don't be alarmed by the quantity—they melt down into a deceptively small amount), then I make a big pot of it so that there's enough for the next day or two.
Because like so many great Italian stews with a tomato base, this is one of those dishes that is always better the next day.
And then I'm in peperonata heaven for a few days, enjoying its versatility.
I eat it on top of toasted bread as antipasto or a quick lunch; as a side with some simply grilled meat or fish; or simply as is, with lots and lots of bread to mop up juices and perhaps a big ball of buffalo mozzarella.
It's even delicious as a sauce for pasta; try it with a short pasta like fusilli.
My favorite version comes from Roman writer Ada Boni, who has a recipe in her 1929 cookbook, Il Talismano della Felicità (“The Talisman of Happiness,” which was published in a very abridged version in English as The Talisman).
The peppers, onions, and peeled and seeded tomatoes all go into the pot at the same time, where they're doused with some olive oil and salt.
They're placed over a very low heat and covered for an hour so that the whole thing stews together very, very slowly.
Right at the end, a glass of vinegar goes over the top and it's ready."
Ingredients:
- 3 to 4 round tomatoes, medium ripe
- extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 yellow onion, thinly sliced
- 3 large red bell peppers, stems and seeds removed
- handful of basil, torn
- Salt and pepper, to taste
- Score a cross in the bottoms of the tomatoes and blanch for about 30 seconds in boiling water. Immediately place them in a bowl of cool water until they're cool enough to manage and it's easy to peel off the skins. Chop into quarters, remove seeds, and dice the flesh. Set aside.
- Slice peppers into thin strips a few inches long.
- In a deep skillet, heat a few tablespoons of olive oil over low heat and add the onion, the peppers, and tomatoes with a good pinch of salt and some black pepper. Cover and let cook, stirring and checking occasionally, until the peppers have melted down into very soft, silky stew and the tomatoes have broken down into a thick sauce, about 1 hour. If needed, splash with water every now and then.
- Remove from the heat, scattering with basil, and serve at room temperature.
- Articles from Emiko you'll love:
The 19th-Century Cookbook That Taught Me About Italian Cooking.
Farrotto: A Food Hybrid Italians Have Embraced
How Italians Feast on Easter (Starring Ricotta & Lamb)
